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How to mastic fill floor board gaps

A Detailed Step by Step Guide to Filling gaps in pine floor boards with floor mastic
by Mark Harvey

 

If you have draught coming through the gaps in your Pine floorboards
or maybe the thought of creepy crawlies coming through those gaps sends
a shiver down your spine, perhaps you just don't like to see the gaps
or maybe you just like the look of filled gaps, whatever your preference,
this is a gap filling solution that looks nice, plugs even the widest
of gaps and doesn't fall out.

Mastic filling of gaps is the one gapping solution that can be done after
the floor has been finished, It will fill gaps up to 10mm Its flexible
so will expand and contract with the natural shrinking and expanding of
the wood and will not fall out.

Masked up ready for filling
 
Finished filled gaps

 

Although I feel this is the best solution for gap filling, It's probably
the most expensive and time consuming, On average you should cover aproximately
1 m2 per 330 ml tube of mastic filler for gaps upto 6mm but where gaps
get really wide you may use twice as much, I use three different brands,
Bona Gap Master, Blanchon Parquet Joint and Unika Colorseal, Each brand
has slightly different perks and quirks, but filling is possible with
either brand. Mastic filler or some people call it floor fudge comes in
a variety of different colours to match or contrast with floorboards stained
or unstained in almost any colour.

The Tools listed below are what you will need.

 

Tools You Will Need

 

   
1. Corking gun
2. Screwdriver
3. Masking tape
4. Vacuum cleaner  
 
       
Step 1

Preparation

Remember the floor needs to be varnished with at least two coats of varnish
previously applied, so any excess mastic will not stick to the timber.
With the floor varnished any excess can be wiped of with clean water.

Using a flat headed screwdriver scrape out any loose dirt or old filler
from the gaps your planning to fill, vacuum out all the loosed debri that
has been scraped out, you need to get the gap as clean as possible for
good adhesion of the mastic.

Scraping out the gaps
 
Vacuuming the gaps

 

 

Step 2

Masking Up

Carefully mask up with masking tape along both sides of the gap keeping
as tight as possible to the edge of the boards, I usually cover about
10 boards at a time.(Make sure you mask up and fill on the same day otherwise
the masking tape may set and leave hard to remove residue when lifted).

 

 

 
Step 3.

Filling

Now that you have masked up a section it's time to load a cartridge of
your favourite mastic into your corking gun.

Cut your nozzle at a slight angle to your required gap size ( you get
a plastic nozzle with each cartridge, you may have to try a few to get
the right size, i usually find a happy medium and use the same nozzle
on each cartridge).

Starting on any side squeeze the mastic into the gap making sure the
mastic rises just above the tape while moving all the way along the gap
until you reach the end of the boards, then run your finger between the
tape pushing the mastic into the gap leaving a smooth edge.work 4 or 5
gaps at a time, before removing the tape.

Squeeze filler into the gap

 

 
Smooth off with finger
Step 4

Removing the masking tape

Pull the masking tape towards yourself at an angle folding the tape as
you go until you reach the end and dispose of into a bag, so as not to
get any sticky mastic on the flooring.clean off any overspill with a wet
clean cloth (I use baby wipes, handy things those) Repeat this with the
section, leave to dry (Times vary with brand) If possible finish with
a further coat of varnish onto the floor making sure to cover the gap
filler.(not essential but makes a nice finish)

 

Pull tape towards you at an angle
 
Nice cleanly filled gaps

You now have nice filled gaps that will keep out the draught and creepy
crawlies, will stay in and look very nice indeed.

(Most mastic gap filler can be sanded once fully cured)